30 Kasım 2011 Çarşamba

MUSHROOM PALACE

MUSHROOM PALACE . COM

This website is filled with information about both edible and Psilocybe Cubensis mushrooms. If you want to know anything about growing mushrooms, edible mushroom strains, mushrooms and health or where to buy them, this is the p(a)lace. We also have a very handy list of all Psilocybe Cubensis strains and their prices.
It took us a long time to gather all this knowledge and now we hope to pass it on to you. Treat it with respect and pass it on to others.
You can use the menus to navigate through our website. The search bar on your right hand side can be used if you’re looking for something specific. If none of your questions are answered by visiting this website you can still contact us. You do this by going to the contact page in the menu bar. We’d be more than happy to help you.
Greetings


How to store mushrooms


How to store mushrooms


It is best to store your mushrooms in a fridge around 4°C if you want to keep them fresh for just a couple of days. If you’re looking for a longer period of storage, it is best to dry your mushrooms. Simply lay out your mushrooms on a grill or plate for a couple of days at room temperature. It is possible to dry them outside if it’s hot and dry.
Do not try to dry them in the oven. This does not work unless you have an oven that heats up below 30°C. But most ovens don’t, so just dry them in plain air.

Mushrooms can’t be frozen. Many people do it, and it’s not dangerous or anything, it’s just that the taste of your mushroom gets lost. Once defrosted, they just taste horrible. It is a waist of your money and mushrooms. Do not try it.

Identify Magic Mushrooms

Identify Magic Mushrooms

I recently stumbled upon a very beautiful wavy cap mushroom (Psilocybe cyanescens). I knew that it was hallucinogenic and so its consumption is illegal. That’s why I want to teach you how to recognize (most) hallucinogenic mushrooms. This way you can keep away from them and avoid trouble.
Sometimes it’s hard to know if a mushroom is edible or not, but it is very easy to know if a mushroom contains hallucinogenic compounds (and thus making it a magic mushroom).
  1. Squeeze the stem with your finger. If it is a hallucinogenic mushroom, blue bruising should occur.
  2. Cut of the stem and make a spore print. The color of the print should be dark blue or dark purple.
If these two characteristics occur on the same mushroom you can be 98% sure that the mushroom is a magic mushroom.
As mycologist Paul Stamets stated: This test gives you 98% certainty that the mushroom is hallucinogenic. The remaining 2% isn’t poisonous, so no harm there.

Notice that I said “most hallucinogenic mushrooms”. There are still some mushroom species undiscovered and our mycological knowledge is still expanding. Always ask for advise from a professional mycologist before consuming any unknown mushroom. I also advise you to buy a good book on the matter, for example: Mushrooms Demystified by David Arora.
Please also mind that I do not encourage the consumption of hallucinogenic mushrooms or other drugs. This article is simply meant to identify hallucinogenic mushrooms.



Identify mushroom species

It is very important to know and understand the picture on the left if you ever want to identify an unknown mushroom species. Many mushrooms look alike, some are even identical unless you see them under a microscope, but yet the one is edible and the other is lethal. So you do need to be very serious about it. Therefor the following rule:
Do not, ever, eat an unknown mushroom. Do not eat wild mushrooms, unless you know what you’re doing.
There are 3 parts of the mushroom that you will need most to positively identify a mushroom.
  1. The cap: always look at the shape and texture of the cap. Look closely to see all colors or (white) dots on the cap.
  2. The gills: look at the formation and color of the gills
  3. The stalk: is it small or tall, robust or narrow. These are also very important features to identify a mushroom.
Besides the physical appearance of the mushroom one should closely look at the substrate the mushroom is growing on. When you want to identify it further you will need this information most of the time and it will make the difference between a positive and a negative identification.
Also look if the mushroom is growing alone or in clusters (many mushrooms growing from one point). This might come in handy later.
Last but not least you will need to take one of the mushrooms home with you. There you will make a spore print. To see how to make one, click here.

Now you have all the information to positively identify most mushrooms. All you need now is a good field guide that will help you identify. You can buy very nice books on eBay or Amazon on this matter. We selected what seemed to be the best books:

Liquid culture



Liquid culture

Normally spores are injected into a substrate. It takes time for the spores to germinate and to form mycelium. Mushroom growers find this a time consuming growing method. That’s why they created the liquid culture technique.

Liquid culture is a fluid containing water and essential nutrients to ensure mycelium growth (mostly consists of malt extract or honey). Spores are injected into the liquid. There they germinate and within a couple of days you’ll have a liquid culture full of mycelium.
This liquid culture is then used to inoculate new substrates. Using liquid cultures, the substrate is colonized much faster compared to spores.

I read Otto’s method and decided to make my own liquid culture so I could teach you how to do it as well. Quick side note: this method of developing mycelium should work with every mushroom species.

Materials needed:

  • 1 clean glass jar (about 250ml)
  • Jar lids
  • Hammer and a nail
  • Tin foil
  • Water
  • Honey
  • Table spoon
  • Cooking pot
  • A tong or any kind of large tweezer
  • Micropore tape
  • Ethanol (rubbing alcohol)
  • Spore print/ spore syringe/ piece of mycelium from agar plates or cardboard
  • Scalpel or sharp knife

Instructions:

Step 1: take the lids of your jars and puncture a hole in the middle with a hammer and a nail. Smoothen the edge a little so you don’t cut yourself.
Clean the jars thoroughly, as well as the lids. Take some water and honey and proceed to step 2.


Step 2: Put the jars in a cooking pot along with the lids. Add some water and bring to a boil for about 30 minutes. This sterilizes the jars to avoid contaminations of bacteria and molds later on. Use a lid on your cooking pot to capture the steam.
After the 30 minutes are up, don’t do anything. First read step 3.


Step 3: Using the tong, take out the jars and place them on a clean working area whilst still hot. The water should still be hot or even boiling. Now pour about 250ml of the boiled water in the jars. Use a clean measuring cup if necessary.
Now add a tablespoon of honey to the sterilized water. Put the lids on the jars and go on to step 4.
Side note: the picture images a teaspoon, not a tablespoon.


Step 4: Cover the jars with tin foil. Make sure the tin foil is on there snugly, since this prevents water from entering the jar during sterilization in step 5.

Step 5: We’re going to repeat step 2. Place the jars in the pot and boil the water for 30 minutes, as pictures above. Use a lid on your cooking pot to capture the steam. Take the jars out after the 30 minute boil and leave them to cool over night.
WARNING
: leave the tin foil ON the jars to cool. This prevents airborne contaminants to enter your jars.

Step 6: After the jars have cooled down over night, gently take away the tin foil. Using your ethanol and a tissue, thoroughly clean the lid of the jar. You’re now ready for inoculation.
To inoculate, you need a spore print, a live culture or a spore syringe.

A spore syringe/live culture: Rub your scalpel or knife using the ethanol. Gently rub about a knife tip worth of spores (you really don’t need much) off of the print. Unscrew the lid and insert the spores into the jar in one smooth motion. Make sure you close the lid as fast as possible. The same goes for live cultures. Cut out a piece of culture from a petri dish or cardboard and place it in the jar.
A spore syringe: Heat the needle of your syringe until it’s red hot. Wipe it down using ethanol and insert the needle in the hole in the jar lid in one smooth motion. Inject 1cc of spore solution. Eject your syringe.
Step 7: Cover the hole in the jar lid with micropore tape to keep out contaminants. Store somewhere for about one week at room temperature. Make sure you agitate the liquid every day by shaking it. You will start to see mycelium. Keep shaking it daily. This will prevent the mycelium to clump together. But be careful not to wet the micropore. Wet micropore is a open invention for contaminants.
All the little spots you see in the image above are clumps of mycelium. Suck these up using a sterile syringe for future use. You can keep these syringes for a couple of months in the fridge.

Cloning on cardboard

Cloning on cardboard

You can develop mycelium on cardboard, although some fungi won’t develop fruiting bodies on it. You have to have a wood loving fungi, like oyster mushrooms, to successfully grow mushrooms from cardboard. On the other hand, it can be used as an agar substitute for almost every fungus. Let me tell you how.
You have a mushroom you want to clone. First of all you’ll want to cut the cap off to make a spore print. You now have only the stem left to work with.
Cut the stem in smaller pieces. You can leave them intact, but cutting them in pieces will make later transplantations to other substrates easier. Use a sterile knife for this, preferably a sterile razor blade or scalpel. Wear latex gloves or wash your hands with alcohol and put on a mouth mask.
Try not to bruise the mushroom too much, as my experience has taught me that bruises take longer too develop mycelium, or don’t develop mycelium at all. So be careful. Try to touch the mushroom stem as little as possible.
Now you have to prepare your cardboard. We do this by providing it with the correct moisture content. Put the cardboard in boiling water for about 1 or 2 minutes. Take it out and let it drip. Shake off as much of the access water as you can. When held vertically, the cardboard shouldn’t be dripping any more water.
Place the stems on your piece of cardboard and put everything in a ziplock bag.
Store the bag in a dark place at the right temperature. For most edible and hallucinogenic mushrooms 22°C should be fine. After a week you should get this as a result (see picture on the left). You can then cut little pieces of the cardboard using your sterile knife and distribute them among your substrates. Or you can use the other agar techniques to isolate a strong monostrain.

AVALON MAGIC PLANTS


avalon magic plants

Welcome to Avalon Magic Plants!

On the island of Avalon, you will find yourself surrounded with every magical plant and fungus imaginable! Rare, lush and tempting, they will make you want to stay and indulge forever... Whether it’s Salvia divinorum, magic mushrooms, truffles or cactii, you will find them here! Avalon Magic Plants also sells growing equipment and other paraphernalia.


Avalon Magic Plants is one of the fastest growing online smartshops in the world. We specialize in all natural products, especially magic mushrooms and hallucinogenic plants like Salvia Divinorum (Extracts), kratom and Peyote cacti. We are continuously expanding our range of products.


Avalon Magic Plants has grown at an amazing rate in the last 2 years since we were established, This is all thanks to our loyal customers and the valuable input they have given us.


We listen to our customers and we pride ourselves in delivering the best customer service in the business.


Here at Avalon Magic Plants you can find, for your magic mushrooms, complete mushroom grow kits, spore vials, spore prints and spore syringes of the best known magic mushroom strains like: psilocybe cubensis Ecuador, B+, PF Classic/PF Original and the infamous Ban Hua Thai!



Magic Mushroom Growboxes Magic Truffles Salvia Divinorum Psychoactive Cacti
Spore Syringe Ayahuasca Kratom Extract

Cloning on agar

Cloning on agar

Agar or agar-agar is a gelatinous substance derived from a polysaccharide that accumulates in the cell walls of agarophyte red algae.
It is used by vegetarians and the Asian cuisine as a substitute for gelatine.
Chemically, agar is a polymer made up of subunits of the sugar galactose. It is mostly used in in microbiology for the growth of bacteria and fungi.
Mycologists (people that study the growth of fungi) grow fungi on agar to isolate the mycelium with the best characteristics for transplantation to an other substrate. This gives you a fungus with more powerful genetics and so a lager yield of mushrooms.

How to make agar:

You can buy agar in any organic or vegetarian shop or online. It comes in powder and can be dissolved in water. Often it is branded as “malt extract agar”.
Measure 1 gram of agar for each dl (1 dl = 3,5 ounces) of water. Soak the agar in the water for a couple of hours. Then boil it on low heat until all the agar powder is dissolved. Then transfer it to your petri dish or any kind of dish you like, while it is still hot. Cover the dish up and let it cool. Once the agar is cooled you are ready to go.
You’ll notice the agar has hardened and has a jelly feel to it. The agar is sterile so do not touch it, otherwise you’ll get unwanted bacteria growth.
Place a piece of mushroom tissue, some spores or mycelium on the agar. Again cover everything up so nothing gets exposed to the air to avoid contaminations. Place the agar on a warm (22-28°C), dark place for a week. You’ll already notice to growth of mycelium. Now it’s time to isolate the mycelium with the right kind of characteristics.
On the left you see a perfect example of what mycelium should look like. You can see that it started in the center from some mushroom tissue and then spread throughout the entire petri dish. You see that the mycelium is thick, white and looks a lot like bundles of threads. This is the perfect mycelium to transfer to an other substrate.
Sometimes mycelium looks a lot like a big ball of cotton. This is slow colonizing mycelium and results in a much smaller harvest.
To transfer the mycelium just cut it out. First of all sterilize a knife by using some alcohol or by holding it in a flame. Then cut out the agar along with the mycelium and just drop it on your substrate. Shake it up a little and put it in the colonization chamber.
You can even do multiple isolations of mycelium. You then just transfer from agar to agar until you get the perfect mycelial growth. Then transplant it to an other substrate and you’ll have the biggest chance of a big yield.
You can easily find petri dishes and agar on amazon:

29 Kasım 2011 Salı

Preperation of Agar

Preperation of Agar – Medium in Petri Dishes
(Level 3 – mushroom expert)



The following formula makes 1 litre of “MEA” – malt extract agar medium, convenient for most species of cultivatable mushrooms. Especially for working with spores, antibacterial agar media is recommended. Ready to use formulas are offered, that only need to be mixed with water.


Recommended equipment:

20 g agar-agar
20 g malt extract
2 g dry yeast
1 g peptone
1 litre drinking water

Erlenmeyer flask
Sterile disposable Petri dishes or glass Petri dishes
Measuring container
Scale
Parafilm
Latex gloves
Face mask and hairnet
Disinfectant solutions for surfaces and hands
Pressure cooker
Sterile working area: Glove Bag/Glove Box or
sterile air flow (HEPA-filter, Laminar Flow Hood)



Mixing the substrate

Pour the ingredients into the Erlenmeyer flask along with hand-hot water, close the lid and shake well until mixed thoroughly. The maximum level of filling the flasks is reached at two-thirds of their volume. Remove the lid and wrap some aluminium around the flask's neck forming a tube which you bend down at its free end. This attached duct will ban condensate water to enter the unlocked flask during sterilisation.




Sterilisation of the agar medium

Agar medium should be sterilised for 45 minutes using a pressure cooker. Overlying a 2-3 centimetre water level at the bottom of the cooker a separating insert keeps the flasks above the water line. Assure yourself that there is no contact between water and the upright standing flasks, decant some water if necessary. (Mind the handling instructions given by manufacturers of your pressure cooker!)

Get the lid locked and put the cooker on a hotplate. Sterilise for 45 minutes, counting from the moment as the pressure gauge reaches its highest stage (for household pressure cookers). If you've got a professional pressure steriliser at your disposal sterilise at 121°C/ 259°F/ 15 psi/ 1.05 bar.

Attention: Do not exceed temperatures specified above for a longer span of time. By overheating the nutrients, the culture medium can degrade and the solutions colour darkens from yellowish to brownish. If so, the medium is useless. Substrates which are composed of other ingredients may have different colours.

After 45 minutes of sterilisation, let the cooker cool off in front of a HEPA-filter or in a clean place. During pressure equalisation air is sucked in; a clean and wet cloth over the cooker's cover filters the aspired air, if you do not use a HEPA-filter.





Pouring the Petri dishes

Wear protective clothing, disinfect working area and hands. Do not open the cooker before the pressure gauge indicates 0. Continue processing from now on because the agar medium is only in its liquid stage above a certain temperature. (If you work with glass Petri dishes, keep in mind, they have to be sterilised too.)

Pour about 25-30 ml warm agar-medium into a Petri dish with 90 mm in diameter, which gives 35-40 Petri dishes per 1 litre agar-medium. For cooling down leave them in a place of low microbiological contamination in front of a HEPA-filter or inside a Glove Box.

When the agar is hardened and cooled to room temperature, the Petri dishes are ready for inoculation. If you do not use all casted Petri dishes, you can seal up the remaining Petri dishes with Parafilm, wrap them in plastic foil or bag and keep them in a clean refrigerator for up to 4 weeks. (35.6-39.2°F / 2-4°C)


Back to general information. - Please click here!

References:

„Mycelium running/ How mushrooms can help save the world“, Paul Stamets; Ten Speed Press, Berkeley/Toronto;
„The Mushroom Cultivator: A Practical Guide to Growing Mushrooms at Home", Paul Stamets, Agarikon Press; First Edition edition (December 1983);
„Growing Gourmet and Medicinal Mushrooms”, Paul Stamets, Ten Speed Press, Berkeley/Toronto;

Recommended books:





Mantarlar Hakkında Dikkat Edilmesi Gereken Hususlar

Mantarlar Hakkında Dikkat Edilmesi Gereken Hususlar
Unutmayın ki tıpkı bizler gibi mantarlar da doğanın bir parçası...

Zehirli olanı var ; Hayvan ve Bitkiler gibi  onlarında hem yenebileni var hem yenmeyeni var.

En zehirli mantarların bile doğal yaşamdaki rolleri çok önemlidir, kesinlikle sebepsiz yere tahrip edilmemeleri gerekir.
  • Yaklaşık on beş çeşit makro-mantar öldürücüdür, diğer yüzlerce mantar türü öldürücü olmamakla beraber ciddi sağlık sorunları yaratacak zehirler içerirler.
  • Pek çok leziz mantarın doğada zehirli hatta öldürücü benzerleri bulunur.

  • Kuzu Göbeği ve Çam Göbeği
    (Morel ve Gyromitra)
  • Mantar yendikten sonra oluşabilecek her türlü sağlık sorunu zehirlenme kabul edilir.
  • Ülkemizde pek çok zehirli mantar halk pazarlarında satılmaktadır.
  • En leziz mantarlar bile uygun olmayan koşullarda saklanarak, bozulmuş olarak yenildiğinde ciddi zehirlenmelere yol açarlar.
  • Asla kulaktan dolma bilgilerle, eski inanışlarla, fotoğraftan benzetme yöntemiyle tanımlanmış ve bayat görünüşlü mantarları yemeyin.
  • Büyük miktarlarda mantar tüketmeyin.
  • KÜÇÜK ÇOCUKLARA YABANİ MANTAR YEDİRMEYİN.
  • Çok az sayıda mantar çiğ yenebilir. Mantarları en az 20 dakika kuvvetli ateşte pişirin.
  • Makro mantarları tanımlamak, tecrübe ve eğitim gerektirir; bilimsel bir netlikle tanımlanamayan mantarlar zehirlenme riski taşırlar.
  • Mantarlar büyüdükleri ortam, iklim koşulları gibi doğal olaylardan etkilenerek aynı bir cins içinde bile büyük renk, şekil, koku, dağılım farklılıkları gösterebilirler.
  • Mantarları zehirli-zehirsiz olarak ayırt etmeye yarayan hiçbir metod yoktur, her türlü genelleme (Örneğin beyazsa zehirsiz, morsa zehirli, sütü akanlar yenir, hayvanlar yiyorsa bizde yeriz gibi), son derece tehlikeli zehirlenmelere yol açabilir.
  • Bilmediğiniz mantarları bir uzmana danışmadan yemek rus ruleti oynamaya benzer.
Agrocybe aegerita
YENİR
Amanita muscaria
ZEHİRLİ
Amanita pantherina
ZEHİRLİ
 
Amanita phalloides

ÖLDÜRÜCÜ ZEHİRLİ
Astraeus hygrometricus
YENMEZ
Calvatia utriformis
  GENÇLERİ YENİR
 
Lepista nuda
YENİR
Coprinus comatus
GENÇLERİ YENİR
Tuber aestivum
YENİR
 
Morchella esculenta
YENİR
Morchella purpurascens f.heteroparaphysa
YENİR
Morchella  conica var.distans
YENİR
Fotoğraflar ve bilgileri Yrd.Doç.Dr. Hakan Allı ‘ya aittir.

MORCHELLA ANATOLICA
Prof. Mustafa Işıloğlu ve Yrd.Doç.Dr. Allı’nın uzun yıllar mantarlar üzerinde yaptıkları çalışmalar, Muğla’nın Ula ilçesi Elmalı köyünde keşfettikleri yeni bir tür mantarı bulmaları ile meyvesi verdi. Karayosunları üzerindeki bu mantar yerel ve Anadoluya ait: Morchella anatolica.
Hakan Allı, bu yeni bulunan mantarın değişik tip bir "kuzu göbeği" çeşidi olduğunu ve yenebilir olduğunu belirtiyor.
Bu konuda daha fazla bilgi edinmek için aşağıdaki web sitelerini ziyaret ediniz.



http://www.aa.com.tr/en/turk-bilim-adamlarindan-yeni-mantar-turu.html



Agaricus bisporus var. avellaneous | Cream Button Spore Syringe


10 ml. Spor ŞIRINGASI
 Agaricus bisporus var. avellaneous | Cream Button Spore Syringe 
Mantar Yetiştiriciliği için steril 10 ml. Kahve Rengi Şapkalı kültür mantarı sporu. Aşılamaya hazır.
Yetiştirme şartları:
Kompost: Azotlu gübre ilave edilmiş sap,saman veya at gübresi nin fermantasyonu ve pastörizasyonu sonucu
nemi :%68-71
amonyak:10ppm den az
N(azot):%2.2-2.4
PH:7.3-7.5

Kuluçka dönemi Ekolojik Şartlar
Ortam sıcaklığı:23-25 C0
Kompost :16-21 C0
Nem :%90-95
Co2 :500-1000 ppm
Taze hava : 0
Örtü toprağı:3-5 cm kalınlığında , steril su tutma kapasitesi yüksek organik toprak Ph:7-7,5Agaricus bisporus, Türkiye'de en çok bilinen ve kültür mantarı olarak adlandırılan bir mantar türü Portabellomantarı olarak bilinen büyük mantarlar aslında Agaricus bisporus'un erginleşmiş halidir. Ticari olarak pastörizasyon işleminden geçirilmiş kompost üzerinde yetiştirilir. Kompost içerisinde sap-saman artıkları, at gübresi, buğday sapı bulunmaktadır. Diğer adı da şapkalı mantarlardır. Bu mantarlar eşeyli veya eşeysiz "sporlar" oluşturarak ürerler. tbotany@gmail.com
 

Kültür Mantarı Spor Satışı

10 ml. Spor ŞIRINGASI

Mantar Yetiştiriciliği için steril 10 ml. kültür mantarı sporu. Aşılamaya hazır.

Yetiştirme şartları:
Kompost: Azotlu gübre ilave edilmiş sap,saman veya at gübresi nin fermantasyonu ve pastörizasyonu sonucu
 nemi :%68-71
amonyak:10ppm den az
N(azot):%2.2-2.4
PH:7.3-7.5 

Kuluçka dönemi Ekolojik Şartlar 

Ortam sıcaklığı:23-25 C0
Kompost           :16-18 C0
Nem                   :%90-95
Co2                     :500-1000 ppm
Taze hava          : 0 

Örtü  toprağı:3-5 cm kalınlığında , steril su tutma kapasitesi yüksek organik toprak Ph:7-7,5

Agaricus bisporus, Türkiye'de en çok bilinen ve kültür mantarı olarak adlandırılan bir mantar türü Portabello mantarı olarak bilinen büyük mantarlar aslında Agaricus bisporus'un erginleşmiş halidir. Ticari olarak pastörizasyon işleminden geçirilmiş kompost üzerinde yetiştirilir. Kompost içerisinde sap-saman artıkları, at gübresi, buğday sapı bulunmaktadır. Diğer adı da şapkalı mantarlardır. Bu mantarlar eşeyli veya eşeysiz "sporlar" oluşturarak ürerler.